“Italian food really reflects the people. It reflects like a prism that fragments into regions.” - Lidia Bastianich
The most exciting thing about Italian cuisine is that when you arrive in the Bel Paese, you’re not just being welcomed to one monolithic cuisine. You’re getting venti saluti (20 welcomes), one from each region, in all their glorious, culinary uniqueness.
We all know better than to think Italy is just pizza and pasta. You only need to look at the offerings in a big city like London to see that the way to sate the eternal hunger for Italian food now, is to get regional, focused and specific. From the alpine North to the sunny South, to truly taste Italy is to eat your way around it.
Kitchen 101 is knowing not to serve up a weighty tome of dishes but to get really good at the things you do on a more streamlined menu. Same with Italian cuisine - don’t try and cover the whole country in wide brushstrokes of Carbonara, San Marzano and Balsamico.
Though of course, there is influence and shared heritage across regional borders with historical blends built over centuries, it’s fairly easy to zoom in and see a particular personality in each culinary tradition. Let’s go hyper-local.
Just ask Brutto and their riff on the Florentine trattoria or Norma and their take on Sicily’s Moorish influences how that’s working out for them.
If you’re keen to see how your restaurant can take this fantastic food to the next level, let’s take a deep dive into eating Italy, through 12 of the most exciting and diverse culinary regions.
Toscana (Tuscany)
Starting strong with one of the most iconic areas in Italy for eating, drinking and living la dolce vita.
Plenty of meat dishes abound, from the medieval ‘Finocchiona’ fennel sausage to Wild Boar pappardelle, cow stomach Lampredotto and onwards to the iconic 1kg cut of Bistecca alla Fiorentina, traditionally served on the bone, cooked on the hot coals and coming from the Chianina cow, one of the oldest Tuscan breeds.
But Tuscan cooking is also an interesting blend of the ‘cucina povera’ of the rural peasants with the richer lives of the nobles living in the town palazzi, so you can expect plenty of veggie dishes too - the ‘Pappa al Pomodoro’ leftovers soup, the stale bread-based but utterly delicious Ribollita and of course, cannellini, soranini, toscanello, corona and schiaccioni beans. The Tuscans are known as the “mangiafagioli” or bean-eaters, after all.
Rumour has it that gelato as we know it today was also born in the city of Florence. Bernardo Buontalenti, architect, designer, artist, engineer extraordinaire, and the guy who created this riff on an older icy treat for the inauguration of the Grand Duke Cosimo I de Medici in the mid-16th century. Other sweets include chestnut cakes, the fondant Torta Pistocchi and the 13th-century Panforte di Siena.
But how could we leave Tuscany without mentioning vino? Probably one of the most famous wine regions in the world, any sommelier would be thrilled to present the Sangiovese-based Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano of the region.
Liguria
Home to Genoa, Portofino and Cinque Terre, as you’d imagine, the cuisine here is very in touch with its maritime roots, with some Gallic influence thanks to its border with France.
Badalucchese-style dried cod, fresh marinated whitebait, squid in a garlicky white wine stew, the tuna steaks of Genoa, stuffed anchovies, mussel soup or ‘Burrida’ fish soup, the sea finds its way into many of the dishes on offer.
But seafood is not the only food…
If you think of pesto, you’re probably thinking of the green one - which hails from Liguria, aka Pesto alla Genovese. From a word in the Genoese dialect meaning to ‘pound’ or ‘crush’, this delicious sauce will traditionally be found with lots of garlic, basil, pine nuts, salt and a hard cheese like Pecorino or Parmiggiano, blended with olive and perfect on pasta, particularly the local ‘trofie’ shape.
‘Sardenara’ anchovy Focaccia (in fact, the classic Focaccia is believed to hail from Genoa), Canestrelli cookies, Potato & Pesto lasagne, ‘Polpettone di fagiolini’ green bean pie, potato and porcini mushroom pie and breadcrumbed ‘sweet fried milk’ can all be washed down with the Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino DOC wines of Cinque Terre (who been cultivating these vines since the 4th century BC.)
Piemonte (Piedmont)
In the North West of Italy, you’ll find Piedmont. Though it might not be as famous as nearby Tuscany, it boasts exquisite culinary products, pastoral landscapes and even a rather stately capital of its own in Turin.
Ruled by the House of Savoy in the turbulent 19th century, it was here that calls for independence would first be heard and the eventual Risorgimento would begin
But they’re more about plates than politics now with some essential eats hailing from this area.
Most people have heard of the fantastic PGI-protected Piedmontese hazelnuts but few know that they were used out of necessity to bulk up chocolate and in doing so, created a delicious globally renowned product.
When Napoleon blocked cocoa imports from France’s rivals England during the 19th century and the local chefs had to get creative, padding up their chocolate with these hazelnuts and creating Gianduia cream. A situation without which Nutella, favourite of breakfast tables Europe-wide, could never have existed. Now used in everything from cakes and gelato to nougat, it’s also sometimes incorporated into more savoury dishes.
We find the prized Alba white truffle, Grissini breadsticks, Arborio rice cultivation (including the Santa Andrea variety which is the only DOP rice in the country), the real Piedmont beef which only 1% of is ever exported (works great as a carpaccio or in a tuna sauce), ‘’Bagna Cauda’’ anchovy, garlic and olive oil dipping sauce, Tajarin ribbon pasta and ‘’Finanziera’’, the peasant stew of… innards.
Cheese? They have plenty with Blue Gorgonzola, Seirass ricotta, soft sheep’s milk Murazzano, Grana Padano and the iconic Castelmagno to count just a few of them.
Piedmont also hosts two tiny villages called Asti and Barolo that, for wine lovers, probably need no further introduction.
Emilia – Romagna
From the Apennine mountains to the Po river, this Northern Italian region is wealthy in many ways… particularly in culinary tradition. In fact, it’s known to some as the foodiest area in Italy - they boast no less than 200 traditional products and 26 ingredients with geographically protected status including the Balsamic Vinegar of Modena, Parmiggiano Reggiano, the rice of the Po estuary, the Piadina flatbread and Prosciutto di Parma.
Early Germanic influences foster a love of pork and pork fats, in everything from the Mortadella of the capital Bologna to the Salame di Felino made only from meat of pigs fed solely on acorns.
This might also explain why the Bolognese sauce is such a different ‘animal’ from the one most tourists recognise. The true ragu from Bologna contains not just beef, but pork (and veal) too. Covering thick tagliatelle pasta, it’s worlds away from the spag bol served up in countries like Britain and a true classic of the area.
Whatever you’re cooking or eating - Tortellini in brodo, fresh Peperonata, milk-braised pork, citrus-heavy rice ‘cakes’, Erbazzone pie, the chocolate density of a Panpepato or clams with wild asparagus - is guaranteed to be an experience the stomach won’t forget.
Oh, and their sparkling wine game is strong too, with orange and natural wines featuring heavily. How very on-trend. Look for white Ortrugo or Malvasia grapes, the red Gutturnio or Lambrusco.
Veneto
To La Serenissima and the surrounding region for one of the most unique culinary traditions in the country.
If Venice’s history is one of a fusion of people and customs thanks to its history as a maritime superpower, then the same can be said for its ingredients. Characterised by the blend of sweet and savoury, by spices and flavours from both East and West, by French and Austrian sweets, this is Italian food… but not as we know it.
Much like Liguria, there is much that speaks to its seafaring past, with sarde in saor, cuttlefish, ‘bacala’ dried cod, shrimp in heavy cream, Spaghetti alla Busara (scampi), simply prepared razor clams and the unusually spiced ‘Seppie in umido’.
But not all of Veneto exists on the 119 islands of Venice.. The lands stretching out from the coast are perfect for rice cultivation giving us the ‘risi e bisi’ soup and glorious risotto dishes from squid ink to go', often found in Burano and the surroundings.
The ancient recipe of Fegato alla Veneziana pairs calf’s liver with sweet onions on a bed of polenta, we have Soppressa, the peppery salami and duck with fruits.
And vegetables? You don’t go without here. Particularly delicious are those grown on the ‘farm’ island of Sant’Erasmo which grows the likes of asparagus and peas with a fantastic saltiness from the lagoon water in the soil.
Those with a sweet tooth can delight in a wide range of desserts from the Ancient Roman Fritoe (that some may say Veneto bettered), fragrant Bussolà Burenelli cookies and fried custard. But the most iconic of Veneto’s desserts is the world-famous tiramisù which many regions lay claim to… however, most are of the opinion that this cornerstone of the dessert trolley was birthed in 1960s Treviso, by restaurateur Ado Campeol.
And of course, no rundown on the tastes of this wonderful region would be complete without a nod to one of the most adored sparkling wines in the world. Spanning 9 growing areas across Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia, a trip here without a glass of Prosecco is unthinkable. Using this mixed with the bright orange Aperol, we also find the region’s signature spritz.
Trentino Alto Adige
Things are done rather differently (and deliciously) in South Tyrol. A border area up in the Dolomite (Pale) mountains, its past as part of the Austro-Hungarian empire has left a lasting impact on what you can expect to eat and drink here. (Little fun fact: it didn’t become part of Italy until after WW1).
With both Italian and German spoken widely here, the influence of both cultures is apparent in everything you taste… and because skiers come here to enjoy the mountains, the standard of dining is also really rather good.
Let’s start with the cheese - Trentino makes great ones as you’d expect from green, mountain pastures. Home to over 200 varieties, from the slightly sour, mould-covered Graukäse or hard Gran Capra goat cheese to the centuries-old semi-hard Stelvio or garlicky, wine-cured Lagrein.
You will also find stunning ingredients like honey, strawberries, potatoes, apricots, asparagus and apples, all cultivated to a high standard here.
Pretzels, Sachertorte, speck, Knödel dumplings, Schnapps and craft beers from the likes of Batzenbräu and Forst Special Brewer as main flavour hits show that this country might be geographically in Italy but hasn’t forgotten its roots.
However, they also do some great wine - in fact, the area is known for it. Riesling, Moscato Rosa, Pinot Noir and your friendly writer’s personal favourite white wine in the world - South Tyrolean ‘Gewurztraminer’ in all its gorgeous, floral glory.
Umbria
Too often derided as Tuscany’s little sister, Umbria is the green heart of Italy and the only region without even a slip of coastline. We’d say it’s ‘Tuscany, without the tourists and some surprises of its own’ would be a more befitting descriptor.
And its idyllic natural landscapes, fantastic hilltop towns including Perugia, Assisi and Orvieto and fascinating history are not the only things this region should be proud of.
Endless “prodotti tipici” abound from the world-famous Baci chocolates that inspired Hershey’s kisses (these are MUCH nicer), truffles in everything from dumplings to pasta dishes, spreads and cheeses, and criminally undervalued wines, with a real talent for deep, tannic reds from the Sagrantino grape.
But there are two areas where Umbria really comes into its own..
First, the ancient legumes and beans hark back to earlier times. Try the ‘mbrecciata of chickpeas, lentils, beans and a good glug of local extra virgin olive oil.
The other is pork products. Bringing fantastic salumi to the world table including Salsiccia Secca, hand-sliced Prosciutto di Norcia and probably the best Porchetta in the whole country. Porchetta may have come from just outside of Rome, but this herb-heavy boneless porky street food is given new wings with a generous smattering of fennel throughout the roast. Maybe pigs really can fly…
Lazio (Latium)
Even if you don’t know this region, you certainly know the capital of it. Rome, is the eternal city, also the capital of Italy tutti and one of the most famous places in the world. Lazio is both large and central to Italy’s food, historically and geographically.
To taste Rome itself is to taste the region in one (mostly) walkable, city. But where to start?
We’d say with the four iconic pasta dishes - Carbonara, Cacio e Pepe, Amatriciana and Gricia). But it doesn’t stop there.
The Quinto Quarto tradition of the city means that no part of the animal is wasted with offal dishes on most menus. Highly recommended are tomatoey Trippa alla Romana, ‘Coda alla vaccinara’ oxtail stew or Pajata which are lamb intestines.
If there is one vegetable that speaks in the Roman dialect, then it’s the artichoke. Served Jewish-style (deep fried whole and perfect with a beer) or Roman-style (marinated in lemon, parsley and other good things), late winter to early spring sees these all over menus, grocery stores and market stalls.
Don’t miss Pecorino Romano DOC, Guanciale (pig cheeks for the marking of the above-mentioned pastas), Saltimbocca alla Romana, thick based pizza by the slice and Castelli Romani DOC wines from the hilltop towns outside the city. Say hello to Frascati alongside red and Rosato grown from Sangiovese, Cesanese, Montepulciano and Merlot grapes with Malvasia and Trebbiano providing the white.
Puglia
From Central to very much South, welcome to the heel of Italy in all its ‘800km of coastline’ glory.
This is the land of olives (ergo olive oil), durum wheat and wine grapes. Interestingly, they might produce the most wine in Italy but this has been a case of quantity over quality in the past. Things are changing now though and their full-bodied Primitivo is actually one of the sunniest and most sipworthy reds in the whole country so…
There are other changes too but historically, Puglia has been one of the poorest regions of Italy and a lot of their traditional regional dishes are born out of resourcefulness. This does not make them any less delicious though and what the Puglians can’t do with mountain vegetables that others would throw away…
A case in point would be Orecchiette con cime di rapa aka ‘Little ear’ pasta with broccoli rabe and some chilli flakes. Another favourite mountain green is found in ‘fave e cicorie’, literally Puréed fava bean with wild chicory. The bitter of the latter sets off the creaminess of the former perfectly.
Moving away from the greens, you’ll find Pane di Altamura (the only PDO-protected bread in the world), crispy Taralli rings, fantastic mussels, red mullet, anchovies, bream and bass dishes, goat stews, Bombette di Alberobello meatballs filled with cheese, Zeppole pastries…
… and a cheese that’s taken the world by storm.
It is, of course, Burrata, the shredded mozzarella that’s been bathed in cream and wrapped in a bit more mozzarella because that’s a dream cheese. Though this is certainly not their only offering to the cheeseboard with the earthy caciocavallo, pear-shaped Scamorza or sheep & goat milk Cacioricotta also hailing from here, it’s one that seems to have excited palates far and wide in recent years.
Campania
We only need to consider that Campania is home to Naples, Sorrento & the Amalfi coast to know that the eating and drinking here are going to be of top quality. After all, the region’s name itself means ‘fertile’ or ‘happy’ countryside.
Due to so many Southern Italians heading for new lands after the rather chaotic Risorgimento and its impact on life down here, it is really the food of this region that most people think of when they think ‘Italian food’, thanks to the diaspora who settled in America, Australia, the UK and beyond.
Pizza? Born in 19th century Naples as quick and easy sustenance for the working man and a recipe that’s protected today.
Tomatoes? Some of the best in the world, including the iconic San Marzano, are grown here.
Pasta? High-quality artisanal products come from the town of Gragnano including local types like Calamarata, Paccheri, Scialatielli and Macaroni.
Mozzarella di bufala? A protected recipe cheese, made from the milk of the buffalo that graze here.
Limoncello? Some would say there are no better lemons in the world than those that grow along the Sorrentine peninsular and Amalfi Coast.
But it doesn’t end with the famous ingredients…
Not only is there plenty of the fantastic fish and seafood typical of Southern Italy but the mountainous interior also throws up some extraordinary cooking of its own.
‘Verdura e fagiole’ greens & beans, the ratatouille-like ‘Ciambotta’, ‘meatballs’ made from bread and served in a sauce of local tomato, ‘Ndunderi con piennolo e moretum’ which offers ricotta dumplings from an ancient Amalfi recipe, Spaghetti alla Nerano - a zucchini and butter-heavy pasta dish, Ragù Napoletano - the less-famous but meatier cousin of the Bolognese sauce, Sorrento’s ‘Delizia al Limone’ dessert, garlicky mussels, Pizzaiola meat cuts, Eggplant Parmigiana, Pizza fritta… the list could go on and on and on.
It’s all sunny. It’s all resourceful. And it all goes oh so well with a glass or three of the local Falanghina wine.
Sicilia (Sicily)
One of the most conquered islands in the world, Sicily’s cuisine is a dazzling array of the flavours left, rightly or wrongly, by centuries of settlers and invaders, using ingredients that are a testament to the microclimates and diverse landscapes - from snow-topped volcano to rugged centre to sea - that make up Italy’s biggest island.
But this is not to say that Sicilians do not have an identity. Quite the opposite and you can see it in everything from art and music to food. When it comes to eating, they utilised ingredients left behind and used them to flavour the dishes that they can proudly claim as their own.
Many Sicilian tastes speak Arabic, from the Moorish settlement in the 9th century which saw the islanders live for a while as an Islamic emirate. Hailing from present-day Tunisia, they brought citrus, spices, pine nuts, raisins, specific types of rice, pistachio, chickpeas, saffron, almonds, eggplant and sugar cane. Without these, dishes and desserts like cassata, cannoli, the pesto of Trapani, pasta alla Norma, Caponata, Pannelle di ceci and Arancini could not exist.
The Arancini themselves are interesting - splitting into two diverse groups. Those of Palermo known as Arancina and shaped like a ball and those of their rival Catania, dubbed Arancino and cone-shaped to represent Mount Etna.
For an island surrounded by three seas - the Med, the Tyrrhenian & the Ionian (hello Magna Graecia) - you’d expect a dazzling array of spectacular seafood… and you’d be right. Sardines are incredibly popular and often paired with raisins in dishes, swordfish rolls, stuffed squid and Sicily’s stunning Mazara red prawns which you can often find served raw as a delicacy.
Wines are interesting thanks to the volcanic nature of the land with Malvasia, Marsala and Zibbibo (sweet), Catarratto Bianco (white) and Nero D’Avola (red) being particularly popular.
And an interesting addition to any Sicilian offering would be the influence of Palermo’s street food markets like Vucciria, Ballarò, Capo and Borgo Vecchio providing unending inspiration. Pane Con La Milza (spleen sandwich), Frittola (surprisingly delicious boiled cartilage and lard), Stigghiola (seasoned and grilled lamb intestine), Sfincione (is it pizza or a bread crust?), Mangia e Bevi (bacon-wrapped spring onions, with a beer) appear alongside the more famous arancini, cannoli and pannelle sandwich.
Lastly, granita and brioche? A star of any breakfast menu.
Of course, there are still 8 regions yet to explore but we hope that this guide has served up some inspiration for doubling down on your Italian offerings. Any in particular take your fancy? Let us know over at @wired.fnd
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